Crombie Water and whisky hills
"A walk through a green valley and bare heather moor in the smugglers' country of Glenlivet."
Walk directions
At Tombae church, turn left to walk for 330yds (302m) to a stile on the right – marked 'Bochel Circuit'. A track leads down into birchwoods. Bear right at a waymarker and follow the main track to reach a bridge and cross over the River Livet. After 60yds (55m), turn right to another bridge, this time over the Crombie Water. Turn half left, up to a small gate beside a field gate. The walk now follows the top of the low wooded bank above the Crombie Water to reach a footbridge.
Across the footbridge, a small path runs across a meadow into a wood, slanting up to the right to a green track. Turn right and follow this gently up through the wood, then bend left on to heather moorland. Below the abrupt hill of The Bochel the way becomes a peaty path. Keep ahead, with a waymarker and some old posts. At the top of the first rise is a stile with a gate alongside. The path, with a waymarker, leads to a gate in another fence. Don't go through, but turn right, with the fence on your left, to a stile with a signpost.
Continue forward then just after Badievochel House turn right at a waymarker post and follow a track, with a fence on its left, towards Bochel Farm.
At once a gate on the right leads to a faint path into the plantation. This soon becomes an earth track running just above the bottom edge of the wood. It becomes more well-used and then runs out to a road.
Turn right, over a bridge to a waymarked gate on the right. A track rises to open fields above the river. At its highest point, a waymarker points down to the right. Go down to a fence, with a waymarked stile on the left, then through heather with a fence on your left. At the fence corner, turn downhill to a stile at the valley floor. Cross this and turn left, ignoring a broken stile on the left, to reach the footbridge, Point 2. Retrace the first part of the walk back to Tombae.
Additional information
Terrain
- Waymarked, muddy and indistinct in places, many stiles
Landscape
- Birchwoods, heather, rolling hills
Dog friendliness
- Keep on lead except in plantation
Parking
- Track opposite church at Tombae runs up to quarry car park
Toilets en route
- None on route or near by
About the walk
Long before the coming of licensed distilleries, whisky was part of the economy of the Highlands. After the hard work of the barley harvest came the quieter occupation of mashing and distilling. The draff (dregs) from the mash-barrel went to feed the cows, while the spirit itself warmed the crofter... through the snows of winter. As rents came to be paid in money rather than in kind, whisky was an easily transported product for cash. It was also convenient to tax, but this simply meant that the Highlanders moved their operation into the hills. The barley fields of Strathspey, the clear mountain water of the Cairngorms and the convenient smuggling routes to Aberdeen and Inverness made Glenlivet a famous whisky region. Even as his redcoats were hunting the smugglers through the Ladder Hills, King George IV was demanding the illicit Glenlivet by name. Water, malt – and mystery The old word 'Scotch' is only applied to whisky – the people are 'Scottish' and the language is 'Scots'. And whiskey with an 'e' comes from Ireland or the United States. Barley is the start-point. The grain is allowed to germinate in the warm, damp environment of the malting floor, which converts some of its starch to sugar. The malt is heated, under the pagoda-like copper roof of the malting kiln, then boiled and fermented into the 'mash', a kind of sweet insipid beer. The mash is passed three times through the onionshaped copper stills and stored in barrels for at least eight years. That's the technical process; the added mystery happens almost by accident. The killing of the malt, traditionally done over a peat fire, adds a smoky aroma, but it's the second-hand sherry barrels used for storage that add the golden colour, much of the flavour and the bite of the oakwood. Blended whiskies, such as Bells, Teachers and Famous Grouse, are made of cheaper corn spirit with malt whisky mixed in. More serious are the 'single malts', each a product of a named distillery. From Glenlivet comes the Glenlivet itself, and also Tomnavoulin, Tomintoul, Cragganmore and Glenfarclas. These are Speyside malts – smooth and subtle. From the islands of the west come wilder whiskies like Lagavoulin and Talisker, with overtones of peat, seaweed and even old fish crates. An educational tasting session could start in the hotels and whisky shops of Tomintoul.
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Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
The largely undiscovered Moray coast offers miles of red sandstone cliffs that spill down to fine sandy beaches split by dramatic rocky headlands, and a chain of small towns, sleepy villages and fishing ports. The gentle breezes and warm sunshine of lazy summer days give the place a restful, relaxing air, and the evenings are a magical time too, with this part of Scotland renowned for its superb sunsets.
Nearby places to stay
View all (8)
Hotel
Grant Arms Hotel
★★★★
"Characterful hotel in a good location for birdwatching...."
- Family rooms: 7
- Free TV
- WiFi available
- Lift available
Hotel
Nethybridge Hotel
★★★
"Scottish countryside hotel with friendly staff...."
- Family rooms: 5
- Free TV
- WiFi available
- Lift available
Hotel
The Station Hotel
★★★★
"An impressive building with an even more impressive whisky bar...."
- Family rooms: 1
- Free TV
- WiFi available
Nearby places to stay
Grant Arms Hotel
Conveniently located in the centre of Grantown-on-Spey, the Grant Arms Hotel offers spacious public areas and has retained traditional character. The restaurant is a popular venue for d...
★★★★ Rating
Nethybridge Hotel
This popular tourist and coaching hotel enjoys a central location amidst the majestic Cairngorm Mountains. Bedrooms are stylishly furnished in bold tartans while traditionally styled da...
★★★ Rating
The Station Hotel
Located at the heart of Speyside, the Station Hotel dates back to 1901 and is a perfect base for touring the numerous distilleries of the area. The 15 Rooms and Suites are modern and we...
★★★★ Rating
Kildrummy Inn
Located in the heart of rural Aberdeenshire, Kildrummy Inn is the perfect base for touring the Grampian Mountains and beyond. This family run, traditional inn combines a harmonious blen...
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Cairn
The Cairn is conveniently located in Carrbridge, in the Cairngorms National Park, as well as being close to Landmark Forest Adventure Park, which is within walking distance. This proper...
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Douneside House
Douneside House provides an impressive range of facilities, with extensive grounds, fishing, spa and leisure facilities as well as stunningly beautiful gardens. Bedrooms come in a range...
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The Auld Kirk
This Victorian Scottish Free Church building has been carefully converted into a warm guest house and is now hosted by welcoming proprietors Helen & Kevin. Many original features of the...
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Balmoral Arms
Formerly Deeside Inn, Balmoral Arms continues the tradition of attracting visitors to Royal Deeside, which has existed since Victorian times. Located in the Royal Deeside village of Bal...
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