The Three Chimneys & The House Over-By
“Exceptional cooking in a wild, romantic setting” - AA Inspector
Our Inspector's View
After 34 years as custodians of The Three Chimneys, Eddie and Shirley Spear handed over the reins to a new owner in April 2019. During this time, the remote restaurant with rooms has made its mark, on both the local economy and on the island's culinary reputation – and, fear not if you’re making the long trek to this site of gastronomic pilgrimage, head chef Scott Davies and the kitchen team will continue to uphold their foodie-destination status under the new regime, which plans to take a ‘leave well alone’ approach. Inside the whitewashed cottage, next door to which (’over by’) is the accommodation building (staying over is a good option – let's face it: you're hardly likely to be just passing by this remote spot), a number of small, low-ceilinged interconnected rooms reflect a sense of place with exposed stone walls, polished dark wood floors and tables simply set with black slate place mats. As the years have passed, the cooking has become noticeably more complex, still firmly rooted in its island environment naturally, and with Loch Dunvegan filling the view, the mind understandably turns to seafood, particularly since that’s the source of the scorched langoustine tails that open proceedings, paired with crispy rose veal sweetbreads, pickled mussels and Jerusalem artichoke purée and crisps. Main courses deliver impeccably sourced meats – wood-roasted Skye venison arrives atop a cabbage-wrapped ball of shredded venison, offset with a medley of turnip, charred Brussels sprouts, quince, and chocolate-enriched sauce. Fish-wise, there may be roasted monkfish in a thoughtfully composed dish involving cauliflower, kimchi and crispy chicken wings. A pitch-perfect dessert brings a technically masterful riff on bitter chocolate textures matched with the subtle flavours of smoked praline, whisky and maple syrup, or you might opt for the seasonal delight of forced rhubarb, its tart lash perfectly complemented by miso biscuit, crowdie mousse and ginger cream.
Facilities – at a glance
- Seats: 40
- On-site parking available
- Wheelchair accessible
- Accessible toilets
- Assist dogs welcome
- Lunch served from: 12
- Lunch served until: 1.30
- Dinner served from: 6.30
- Dinner served until: 9.15
- Wines under £30: 9
- Wines over £30:
- Wines by the glass: 17
- Cuisine style: Scottish, Nordic Influence
Also in the Area
About The area
Apart from the Orkneys and the Shetlands, Highland is Scotland’s northernmost county. Probably its most famous feature is the mysterious and evocative Loch Ness, allegedly home to an ancient monster that has embedded itself in the world’s modern mythology, and the region’s tourist industry. Monster or no, Loch Ness is beautiful and it contains more water than all the lakes and reservoirs in England and Wales put together. The loch is 24 miles long, one mile wide and 750 feet deep, making it one of the largest bodies of fresh water in Europe.
At the very tip of the Highlands is John o’ Groats, said to be named after a Dutchman, Jan de Groot, who lived here in the early 16th century and operated a ferry service across the stormy Pentland Firth to Orkney. In fact, the real northernmost point of the British mainland is Dunnet Head, whose great cliffs rise imposingly above the Pentland Firth some two miles further north than John o’ Groats.
The Isle of Skye is the largest and best known of the Inner Hebrides. Its name is Norse, meaning ‘isle of clouds’, and the southwestern part of the island has some of the heaviest rainfall on the whole of the British coast. Despite this, it’s the most visited of all the islands of the Inner Hebrides. It’s dominated from every view by the high peaks of the Cuillins, which were only conquered towards the end of the 19th century.
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