The Snake River and Cuckmere Haven
"Follow a breezy trail beside the Cuckmere River as it winds in erratic fashion towards the sea."
Walk directions
From the car park, go through the gate by the parking ticket machine and Seven Sisters Country Park notice board and map, and follow the wide, grassy path signed ‘Beach Trail’. The path gradually curves to the right, running parallel to a concrete track. The Cuckmere River meanders beside you, heading for the sea. Continue ahead and make for a South Downs Way sign.
Reach a junction with the South Downs Way, avoiding the track to the left over a cattlegrid signposted to Foxhole Campsite. Carry on along through a gate, forking left on the South Downs Way at the next signpost. At the following gate do not follow the South Downs Way uphill but keep right along low ground with the hillside and fence on your left. Pass a group of wartime pill boxes, and go through a gate. Join a stony path and walk ahead to the beach, with the white wall of the Seven Sisters rearing up beside you.
Turn right and cross the shore via the shingle beach. Turn right when you reach the river and drop to an Emergency Point sign. Go ahead for about 50yds (46m) until you come to a junction by a line of toothlike concrete wartime tank traps and keep left, following the Park Trail. Keep beside the Cuckmere. The landscape here is characterised by a network of meandering channels and waterways, all feeding into the river. Keep left at the next fork and follow the footpath as it veers left, in line with the Cuckmere. Continue on the straight path by the side of the river.
Cross the road beside Exceat Bridge. Turn left then immediately right through a kissing gate to continue with the Cuckmere on your left, following the riverside path through this delightful, though lonely, valley. Swans may be seen gliding on the water. Head for a kissing gate, continue over two stiles and look for a path on the right, just before a stile.
Take the path away from the Cuckmere, following it between trees and bushes. Go through a kissing gate then cross a stile, turn left at the road and pass the entrance to Charleston Manor. Pevsner described Charleston as ‘a perfect house in a perfect setting’. Parts of it date from the early 12th century, and the house is renowned for its truly splendid gardens and 15th-century double tithe barn.
Continue for a few paces and turn right to join an unwaymarked path, with a wooden fence to your right. Merge with the South Downs Way and the Vanguard Way and keep right at the fork. Climb the steps and follow the signs for the South Downs Way first south, then southeast through Friston Forest. Cut through beech woodland to an obvious junction.
Turn right here and drop straight down to the picturesque hamlet of Westdean, lying half-hidden in a wooded hollow. The church dates mostly from the 14th century, and rectory is probably Norman. Join the road on a bend and continue ahead to a junction.
Cross over and walk ahead to a flight of steps.
Make for a stone stile at the top of the steps, where there are glorious views of the Cuckmere River below winding away towards the sea. This certainly has to be one of the most dramatic and memorable views in all of Sussex. Descend the steep, grassy hillside and make for a kissing gate by the visitor centre. Cross the road and return to the car park.
Additional information
Terrain
- Grassy trails and well-used paths, mostly beside the Cuckmere or canalised branch of the river, as well as thick woodland, several stiles
Landscape
- Exposed and isolated valley and river mouth
Dog friendliness
- Under close control within Seven Sisters Country Park; on lead during lambing season, near roads and in Friston Forest
Parking
- Car park at Seven Sisters Country Park
Toilets en route
- Opposite car park, by visitor centre
About the walk
One of the few remaining undeveloped river mouths in the southeast is the gap or cove known as Cuckmere Haven. It is one of the south coast’s best-known and most popular beauty spots. The Cuckmere River joins the English Channel here, but not before it makes a series of extraordinarily wide loops... through lush water meadows, hence the name ‘Snake River’. The Cuckmere emerges beside the famous white chalk cliffs known as the Seven Sisters. Extending east towards Birling Gap, there are, in fact, eight of these towering chalk faces, with the highest one, Haven Brow (253ft/77m), closest to the river mouth. The focal point of the lower valley is the Seven Sisters Country Park. There are artificial lakes and park trails, and a visitor centre. However, there is more to the park than just these attractions. The flowers and insects found here are at their best in early to mid summer, while spring and autumn are a good time to bring your binoculars with you for a close-up view of migrant birds. Early migrant wheatears are sometimes spotted in the vicinity of the river mouth from late February onwards and are followed later in the season by martins, swallows, whinchats and warblers. Keep a careful eye out for whitethroats, terns and waders too. The lakes and lagoons tend to attract waders such as curlews, sandpipers and little stints. Grey phalaropes have also been seen in the park, usually after severe autumn storms. The walk explores this very special part of the Cuckmere Valley and begins by heading for the beach. The meltwaters of the last Ice Age shaped this landscape, and over the centuries rising sea levels and a freshwater peat swamp influenced the river’s route. Around the start of the 19th century, the sea rose to today’s level and a new straight cut with raised banks, devised in 1846, shortened the Cuckmere’s journey. This helps prevent flooding, although in the long term the plan is to allow the valley to revert to salt marsh.
Read more
Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
East Sussex is a land of stately homes, castles and the South Downs, with miles of chalk cliffs overlooking the English Channel. For history buffs, there are a great many historic landmarks within Sussex, such as the battlefield where the Battle of Hastings took place, or visitors can enjoy pretty towns such as Lewes, Rye and Uckfield and the city of Brighton.
Nearby places to stay
View all (8)
Self-Catering
2 Kingsway Court
★★★★
"Delightful cottage close to the town centre, unspolt coast and South Downs National Park..."
Self-Catering
2 Kingsway Court
★★★★
"Delightful cottage close to the town centre, unspolt coast and South Downs National Park..."
- Total units: 1
Bed & Breakfast
Ocklynge Manor
★★★★★
"A special place to stay with immaculate gardens...."
- Rooms 3
- Free TV
- DVD Player
- Wifi
Nearby places to stay
2 Kingsway Court
A delightful holiday cottage, close to Seaford town centre, the seafront and the South Downs National Park. On the ground-floor there’s a large lounge/diner, large kitchen/breakfast roo...
★★★★ Rating
2 Kingsway Court
A delightful holiday cottage, close to Seaford town centre, the seafront and the South Downs National Park. On the ground-floor there’s a large lounge/diner, large kitchen/breakfast roo...
★★★★ Rating
Ocklynge Manor
Over the centuries Ocklynge Manr has seen a variety of uses since serving as a commanderie for the Knights of St John in the 12th century. An air of peace and relaxation is evident in t...
★★★★★ Rating
Beachy Rise Guest House
This friendly, family-run guest house has a quiet residential location near the shops, pubs and restaurants in Meads village. Bedrooms are individually styled with co-ordinated soft fur...
★★★ Rating
Hydro Hotel Eastbourne
The well-managed and popular Hydro Hotel Eastbourne enjoys an elevated position with views of attractive gardens and the sea beyond. The spacious bedrooms are attractive and well equipp...
★★★★ Rating
The Grand Hotel
A famous Victorian seafront hotel, The Grand Hotel commands breathtaking views of the sea and the dramatic cliffs at Beachy Head. On offer are high standards of service and hospitality,...
★★★★★ Rating
The Royal
The Royal enjoys a central seafront location close to the pier and within easy walking distance of the town centre. Spectacular uninterrupted sea views are guaranteed. This eco-friendly...
★★★★ Rating
Warren Wood Country Park
Situated in the heart of the East Sussex countryside, Warren Wood offers luxury woodland or lake side self-catering lodges, all with private hot tubs. Near to the seaside town of Eastbo...
★★★★★ Rating

