Along the coast to Start Point

Visit the little village of Torcross, at the southern end of Slapton Ley, south of Dartmouth, on a sunny summer day and it’s quite impossible to believe that it could ever be anything but calm and tranquil. The views south to Start Point are particularly wonderful in May, when the point shimmers under a carpet of bluebells. But on 16 January 1917 the fishing village of Hallsands, just to the south, was almost totally destroyed during a huge storm which smashed through the sea walls and washed most of the buildings away.

Perhaps it was the result of extensive dredging work off the coast here between 1897 and 1902, when tons of shingle were removed for Royal Navy building work at Devonport in Plymouth. Around 1,600 tons were dredged up each day, so altering the patterns of coastal erosion. The remaining villages still suffer – Torcross seafront was badly damaged during heavy storms in 1951 and 1979, and the Slapton Sands road washed away for a period in 2001.

This is a versatile walk. You can turn back at Beesands, or Hallsands, or go all the way to the lighthouse at Start Point. From the viewing platform above ruined Hallsands village, you can still see the remains of some of the cottages; there were originally two rows, comprising 37 homes and a range of shops, and a pub, The London Inn. The last resident of Hallsands, Miss Prettijohn, lived there until her death in the mid 1960s. Her cottage, which can be seen from the viewing platform, is now a holiday home.

At Point 5 you’ll reach an elegant building (now converted into luxury apartments) that was once home to the Trout sisters. Fisherman’s daughters Patience, Ella, Clara and Edith survived the devastation of 1917, and with their mother moved just inland to Bickerton. Ella, using money given to her as reward for rescuing a stricken crewman in the summer of 1917, began (with Patience) to build a new home, Prospect House, on the cliffs above Old Hallsands. This house was opened as a guesthouse – known as ‘Trout’s’ – in 1925. Fifty years later, on the death of the last sister, Edith, the property was sold and converted into holiday flats

From the car park (by the toilets) follow the coast path sign over the road to turn right along the concrete promenade (a sea defence scheme from 1980). At the end, ascend steep steps on to a gravel path, following coast path signs. Here there are great views back along Slapton Ley, the largest natural lake in the West Country.

Follow yellow coast path arrows, eventually to go through a gate into a field on the cliff top, then through the next gate and along a path through woodland, which drops down with spectacular views over Widdicombe Ley and Beesands.

The path joins a track, which runs behind the beach into the village of Beesands, which has a slightly forgotten feel. Pass the tiny St Andrew’s Church and The Cricket Inn (on the right), and continue straight on along the seafront, following signs for Hallsands.

The path climbs steeply up the cliff and through a gate onto Tinsey Head. When North Hallsands comes into view, look carefully down to sea level to the ruined village beyond. Go through the next gate and along the lower edge of the field. The beach at North Hallsands is quiet and remote; the houses across the field behind the beach were built to re-house some of the displaced villagers in 1924. Descend through gates and fields to reach the beach.

Cross the beach to join the lane behind and keep ahead as signed on the coast path towards Start Point. At new houses ascend wooden steps and keep ahead to pass Prospect House, former home to the indomitable Trout sisters (see Introduction). Walk down to the viewing platform above the old village; there’s a real feeling of desolation here.

Follow the coast path on towards Start Point. A couple of old apple trees arch over the path, indication of the strength of the winds here. The path leads up to a kissing gate to join the car park for Start Point and Great Mattiscombe Sand, and the gate to the lighthouse (open to the public most days in summer). On the return route enjoy spectacular views along the coast.