Exploring Castle Howard

One of the greatest of England’s stately homes, Castle Howard was designed in 1699 by John Vanbrugh for Charles Howard, 3rd Earl of Carlisle. Vanbrugh was not an architect; he made his reputation first as a soldier, then as a playwright, so he was an odd choice. Nevertheless, he rose to the task in superb style. The north front, which we see from the first part of the walk, is hugely dramatic, with its giant columns, curving wings and crowning dome. One early visitor, Sir Horace Walpole, wrote, ‘I have seen gigantic palaces before, but never a sublime one.’

Everyone who visits Castle Howard will soon realise that this great house is set in a landscape that has been carefully manipulated as a setting for the house. The impressive 3.75-mile (6km) long, ruler-straight avenue that passes through the fortified Carrmire Gate and the Pyramid Gate, is only the start. Virtually everything of the estate you will see on the walk has been altered – hills rounded or levelled, rivers re-routed and dammed, lakes dug. All this was to create what the 18th-century writers called ‘a perfect landskip’, based on Italian paintings and dotted with classical buildings.

There are three pyramids at Castle Howard – one of them is over the Pyramid Gate, one is in Pretty Wood and the third, The Great Pyramid, is a landmark on the second part of this walk. Surrounded by four stone lanterns this pyramid (not open to the public) holds a colossal bust of the 3rd Earl’s great-great-great-grandfather. To the right as you approach the ornamental bridge over the New River, created in the 1740s, is the splendid Mausoleum designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor. It is the final resting place for many generations of the Howard family, including Lord Howard of Henderskelfe, a former Chairman of the BBC. From the ornamental bridge there are fine views of the south façade of the house itself and its distinctive gilded dome.

Beyond the bridge is the Temple of the Four Winds, each portico inviting fresh breezes from the cardinal points of the compass. This little building by Vanbrugh is at the end of a terraced walk from the house. It is said that this walk was originally the main street of the village of Henderskelfe, swept away by the 3rd Earl and his architect in their grandiose scheme. Plans were drawn up for a new village nearby, but somehow it was never built. Beyond, notice the garden wall; the ground is higher on the house side, and is retained by a solid, rustic wall with a ditch in front of it – an early ha-ha, which allowed uninterrupted views of the countryside without the inconvenience of sheep in the drawing room.

From Coneysthorpe head towards the lake, then turn left and, just beyond the last cottages, go right through a tall white gate in a wall.

Go half left, following the Bog Hall sign. Cross the track and head towards the further telegraph pole, passing the cemetery on your left. After a gateway, go right along the edge of a field, and when you reach the double gate turn right again along the edge of the wood. Continue along the track to reach a junction of tracks near a bridge.

Do not cross the bridge, but turn left along the track, following it as it bends right, signed ‘Gaterley’, through the farm buildings. The track passes a wood and winds over a bridge. At the next farm buildings follow the Centenary Way sign to the right.

At the T-junction turn right along the metalled lane. The Great Pyramid comes into view. As you near it you will reach a staggered crossing of tracks. Turn right here, signed ‘Coneysthorpe’, and descend to the bridge over the dammed stream, with the Mausoleum on the right and Castle Howard on the left.

Cross the bridge, go through the gate then continue uphill, with the Temple of the Four Winds on your left. The path goes over the ridge, then turns left to the park wall. Follow the wall as it bends left and go though a kissing gate beside a white gate and continue along the track.

At a T-junction turn left and follow the track, which bends right near some metal gates. Follow this track back to the tall white gate in Coneysthorpe. Turn left through the gate, and retrace your route back to the car park.