To the summit of Pumlumon

From Nant-y-moch Reservoir to Pen Pumlumon Fawr, returning via Llyn Llygad Rheidol

NEAREST LOCATION

Pumlumon Fawr

RECOMMENDED BY
DISTANCE

9.75 miles (15.7kms)

ASCENT
1600ft (488m)
TIME
4hrs 30min
GRADIENT
DIFFICULTY
Hard
STARTING POINT
SN756862

About the walk

Pumlumon may not be the highest of Wales’s peaks, but there is probably no other summit in Wales from which so much of the country is visible. Certainly, on a fine day the views are memorable. To the west, beyond Nant-y-moch Reservoir, brown hills and inky forests slide away into the distance, leading the eye to the thin blue line of Cardigan Bay. If you’re lucky, you will be able to see the full curve of the bay, from Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island) in the north to St David’s Head in the south. Looking south from the summit, your eye will be caught by the angular ridges of the Brecon Beacons, while to the north Cadair Idris dominates the landscape, concealing most but not all of the even higher peaks beyond.

Traditionally, Pumlumon was considered to be one of the three major mountains of Wales, along with Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and Cadair Idris. Strictly speaking, the name Pumlumon (often anglicised to Plynlimon) refers to the massif as a whole, and means ‘five peaks’. The highest of these is Pen Pumlumon Fawr at 2,467ft (752m); the other four principal summits are Pen Pumlumon Arwystli, Y Garn, Pen Pumlumon Llygad-bychan and Pumlumon Fach. The mountain is also the source of three major rivers: the Severn, the Wye and the Rheidol.

According to legend, the rivers are the three daughters of Father Pumlumon, who promised them all the land they could cover from their home to the sea. The Severn, who left first, took the longest way, while the Wye opted for the prettiest. Oversleeping, the Rheidol knew she had to hurry and raced as rapidly as she could to the nearest coast at Aberystwyth.

Standing on Pumlumon it is possible to see all three of Wales’s national parks: Snowdonia, the Brecon Beacons and the Pembrokeshire Coast. Strangely, though, the large upland area between Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons – of which Pumlumon is the highest point – has no special status; a proposal to create a Cambrian Mountains National Park between Machynlleth and Llandovery was rejected by the Secretary of State for Wales in 1973. The Cambrian Mountains Society is campaigning for greater statutory protection for this unique upland area, including the creation of an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).

Walk directions

From the parking area by Nant-y-moch Reservoir, walk up the road away from the dam. At the top of the climb, the road curves south and passes to the right of a forestry plantation. Just past Lle’r-neuaddau farm, take the wide gravel track on the left. Climb along the right-hand side of a valley towards the forest of Dyll Faen.

Continue along the wide gravel track climbing through the forest. Where the track ends at a second turning area, bear slightly left to pick up a rough and boggy path. Climb through a wide swathe of cleared forest below electricity wires.

After a final steep pull, the path reaches a fence at the top edge of the trees. Follow this to the right and cross a stile on to the open mountain. Turn left along a broad track, which follows the edge of the forest to a gate then climbs sharply.

At the top of the slope, the track bends right and then left before finishing. Keep straight up the slope ahead to reach a fence at the top of the rise. Turn right before the fence and follow it along the ridge, enjoying views to both north and south.

After crossing a stile, walk a few paces to the right and join a clear, stony path up to the summit of Pen Pumlumon Fawr, crossing a ladder stile on the left just before the trig point. Ignoring the fence, head north past a final cairn and join a clear, steeply descending path into a col below Pumlumon Fach.

From the col, descend on a fainter path along a grassy gully. This curves slightly right, then descends steeply to a gravel track near Llyn Llygad Rheidol. Turn left along the track, curving around the northern slopes of Pumlumon Fach and high above the bare valleys of the Hyddgen and Hengwm.

Now heading south, the track passes some shallow lakes and begins to descend. After doubling back down the slope to a junction with a lane, turn left and follow the road along the eastern shores of Nant-y-moch Reservoir. Climb to a T-junction and turn right, dropping back down the hill to the car parking area by the reservoir dam.

Additional information

Lanes and tracks, clear mountain paths, sections where route is unclear/undefined

Wild moorland, some forest, large reservoir

Wild, open country; dogs can run free if no sheep present

OS Explorer 213 Aberystwyth & Cwm Rheidol

Large free parking area next to the Nant-y-moch Reservoir dam

None on route

The descent route from Pumlumon is not recommended in poor visibility

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WALKING IN SAFETY

Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.

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About the area

Discover Ceredigion

The name ‘Ceredigion’ takes a bit of explanation. The town of Cardigan gives its name to the surrounding bay, but the county now uses the Welsh word for Cardiganshire – Ceredigion, pronounced with a ‘dig’. Cardigan Bay itself is a large inlet of the Irish Sea and stretches from Bardsey Island to Strumble Head. With many beaches and a unique marine life, it’s the place to come to spot bottlenose dolphins, porpoises and Atlantic grey seals. The area is a Special Area of Conservation (SAC), designated under European law to protect its species and habitats. The Ceredigion coastal path is also a major attraction.

Much of the surrounding land is fertile farmland, dotted with towns and seaside resorts such as Fishguard, New Quay, Aberaeron, Aberystwyth, Borth, Aberdyfi, Barmouth and Porthmadog. It’s also a section of coast that major rivers flow into, including the Afon Glaslyn, Teifi, Rheidol, Dyfi, Aeron, Dysynni and Mawddach. Historically, the area supported a strong maritime industry. Cardigan was a major hub, once having more than 300 ships registered in its port, seven times as many as Cardiff. Due to being something of a backwater, in many ways this area remains charmingly unspoilt. The nearby heather-clad Preseli Hills are an additional delight.

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