Looking over the sea to Skye
"A coast walk along Loch Alsh with views of Skye, the sea and a fish farm."
Walk directions
A track runs out of the car park, signed for Ardintoul and Totaig. It descends gently through two gates, then goes up through a third into a plantation. With high power lines ahead and above, the track forks. Take the left-hand one, downhill, passing a waymarker post. The track runs between the feet of a tall pylon and then diminishes to a path as it climbs to contour through a birch wood. It dips in and out of a tiny stream gorge, then gently descends towards the shore. On the other side of Loch Alsh, the white houses of Balmacara are directly ahead.
At the shoreline, the track disappears into an open field strip. Follow the short grass next to the shingle beach, passing a salmon farm just offshore. Soon after this you reach walled fields, backed by a small crag with birches. Keep along the shore, outside the field walls, and sometimes taking to the stripy schist shingle, towards a square brick building on the point ahead. Opposite the end of the birch crag, you come to a wide break in the wall. Here a track that's simply a pair of green ruts runs directly inland through a grey gate to meet a gravel track. Turn left, away from the abandoned former farm. You pass the ruin of Ardintoul House to the shoreline.
The track runs along the shoreline, then turns inland to climb the hill behind. The steeper uphill sections are tarred. Below on the left, the Allt na Dàlach runs into Loch Alsh, with, at low tide, a clear example of a gravel spit where river debris runs into tidal water. The track enters plantations, crosses a stream and bends right to complete its climb to the Bealach Luachrach. Here you may see traces of recent peat workings on the left.
Pass the hill of Glas Bheinn – a tough little climb, but a fine viewpoint. From a big turning circle at the road's high point, turn right up a wet tree gap to reach open hillside. Follow the remains of an old fence up the first rise. Where it bends right, continue straight uphill to the summit, returning by the same route. The old fence makes a useful guide back into the tree gap. Continue downhill from Point 4 on the unsurfaced road, which reaches the tarred public road a 1 mile (1.6km) north of Glenelg village. Grassy shoreline, then the road, leads back to the ferry pier.
Additional information
Terrain
- Tracks, grassy shoreline, minor road
Landscape
- Wooded coast, moorland pass, stony paths
Dog friendliness
- Off lead most of walk
Parking
- Above pier of Glenelg ferry
Toilets en route
- None on route or near by
About the walk
Two hundred years ago, Scotland's rivers were full of salmon, and smoked salmon was the crofter's winter food store. When wild salmon became scarce it was considered a luxury food, and today, if you buy salmon, it's almost certainly from a fish farm. Fish farming A fish farm should be sheltered... from storm waves, but in water at least 30ft (9m) deep so that fish droppings don't poison the fish. There should be a vigorous tidal flow to carry oxygen-rich water into the pens, no pollution and the water should be cool, but should not freeze. In other words, it should be in a Scottish sea loch. Scotland's farms now produce salmon with a fish-counter value of one billion pounds each year, they employ 8,500 people and produce 160,000 tonnes of fish a year, enough to give every Briton a 4oz (100g) steak every week. Fish farming is a tough life. Mending a net that's 3ft (90cm) underwater is not comfortable when the water is still, and it invariably isn't, because the day when it's blowing half a gale is the very day the nets break. Hauling the cages out of the water for cleaning is the toughest job of all – seaweed grows on fish farms just as it does on the shoreline, and after two years it starts to hinder the flow of water. And a single storm, or even a passing whale, can tear the nets and lose the work of two years. Mass catering During its first 40 years, fish farming tried to produce as much as possible, as cheaply as possible. Salmon were stocked like battery hens and fed a high-fat diet. Antibiotics keep them alive if not altogether healthy, and dyes give their flesh the pink colour. One result has been pollution from their droppings poisoning nearby shellfish beds. Fish farms act as reservoirs of disease, in particular of the parasitic sea-lice. There are many reasons for the decline of the wild salmon and infection from fish farms is one of them. Scottish fish farming has now reached the point where it has to clean up its act. A recent development is the organic fish farm, where the fish are stocked less densely and are fed a more natural diet. Fish pens are circular because the salmon prefer to swim round and round. If they were put in a square enclosure, the corners would be wasted. More importantly, the fish would hit the sides, and this would damage their scales.
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Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
Apart from the Orkneys and the Shetlands, Highland is Scotland’s northernmost county. Probably its most famous feature is the mysterious and evocative Loch Ness, allegedly home to an ancient monster that has embedded itself in the world’s modern mythology, and the region’s tourist industry.
Nearby places to stay
View all (8)
Guest Accommodation
Eilean a’ Cheo Guest House
★★★★
"Welcoming guest house in a glorious landscape close to Eilean Donan Castle...."
Hotel
Duisdale House Hotel
★★★★
"A real Isle of Skye gem run by enthusiastic and charming staff...."
- Family rooms: 1
- Free TV
- WiFi available
Restaurant with Rooms
Cornerstone Restaurant and B&B
★★★★
"The no-frills menu makes the best of local produce...."
Nearby places to stay
Eilean a’ Cheo Guest House
Eilean a' Cheo Guest House is situated in the village of Ardelve and enjoys stunning views across Loch Aish, to Eilean Donan Castle and the village of Dornie. Accommodation is split bet...
★★★★ Rating
Duisdale House Hotel
Duisdale House Hotel is an award-winning, family-run boutique hotel on Skye’s Sleat Peninsula. With stunning views over the sea to the mountains beyond, this Victorian mansion has 22 be...
★★★★ Rating
Cornerstone Restaurant and B&B
The Cornerstone is a no-frills restaurant with rooms enjoying a very good spot on the main road in Mallaig, on the west coast of the Highlands of Scotland. The harbour is a short walk a...
★★★★ Rating
Coruisk House
Coruisk House is an intimate restaurant with rooms, set 13 miles down a single track road in the village port of Elgol on the Isle of Skye. This is without doubt a remote part of the co...
★★★★ Rating
The Torridon
Delightfully set amid inspiring loch and mountain scenery, The Torridon is an elegant Victorian shooting lodge that's been beautifully appointed to make the most of its many original fe...
★★★★★ Rating
Glenfinnan House
This Scottish country house is a fine stone mansion dating from 1755 and has benefitted from a full refurbishment in 2024. Attractive public rooms include a comfortable drawing room, a ...
★★★★ Rating
Ardarroch Cottage B&B
Ardarroch Cottage is a small, friendly, two-roomed Bed & Breakfast offering an exceptional standard of accommodation and service for adults only. Situated 10 miles from Fort William and...
★★★★★ Rating
Edinbane Lodge
Edinbane Lodge is a renovated 16th-century house designed to provide a luxurious and comfortable stay. The 6 rooms have been individually decorated with sumptuous woods, fabrics, textur...
★★★★★ Rating
Places to eat nearby View all
Places to eat nearby
Duisdale House Hotel
AA Rosette Award
Cornerstone Restaurant
AA Rosette Award
Coruisk House
AA Rosette Award
The Torridon 1887 Restaurant
AA Rosette Award
The Dining Room
AA Rosette Award
Edinbane Lodge
AA Rosette Award
Glengarry Castle Hotel
AA Rosette Award
Seasgair by Michel Roux Jr
AA Rosette Award




