Cwm Bychan and the Roman Steps
Walk directions
Go through the gate at the top of the car park at Llyn Cwm Bychan, and over the paved causeway across the stream. Beyond a kissing gate and stile the path climbs up through squat woodland.
Over another stile you leave woodland behind and cross a stream on a small bridge. The path, always clear, climbs steadily to a gate. Now slabbed with ‘the steps’, it climbs through a heather-clad rocky ravine and on to the cairn marking the highest point along the rocky pass of Bwlch Tyddiad.
From the col, the path descends into a grassy moorland basin beneath Rhinog Fawr, then, beyond a couple of footbridges, enters the conifers of the Coed-y-Brenin plantation. A well-defined footpath tucks away under the trees and soon comes to a wide, flinted forestry road, along which you turn left.
After about a mile (1.6 km), the road swings away to head east; watch out for a waymarked path on the left just beyond the turn. Waymarkers guide the route left, then right, to pass the ruins of Hafod-Gynfal. Beyond this you head north on an occasionally uneven path to go over a ladder stile and out of the forest.
Go straight ahead from the stile, heading north across the grassy moor of Moel y Gwartheg. The ground gets wet as you descend, but it’s wetter still further right. You’re heading for the isolated cottage of Wern-fâch, which stands a little to the left of a small patch of conifers, but for now aim towards the green fields of Cefn Clawdd.
You meet a fence, which guides you down to Wern-fâch. Cross a stile, then just above the cottage turn left at a waymark post, and go over two ladder stiles. Follow the main stream (Afon Crawcwellt) to Wern-cyfrdwy (house), pass behind it, then join the walls and fences that shadow the stream. These give the least wet line across the sodden moorland.
The going firms up as the ground steepens, climbing to the lonely col of Bwlch Gwylim, a narrow pass between Clip and Craig Wion. Descending the far side, Cwm Bychan and the start of the walk eventually come back into view. The footpath now descends to the southwest, through heather and bracken. After a ladder stile, look for a small waymark where you turn left down steep slopes back to the car park.
Additional information
Terrain
- Rocky paths, tracks and boggy moorland, many stiles
Landscape
- Gnarled gritstone peaks with heather slopes
Dog friendliness
- Can be off lead in upper heather-clad regions of walk
Parking
- At head of Llyn Cwm Bychan (honesty box)
Toilets en route
- None on route
About the walk
The road from Llanbedr into Cwm Bychan is a joy in itself, passing through oak woods, by the banks of a babbling stream and beneath the small rocky castles of the Rhinog foothills. Llyn Cwm Bychan is stunning. If you see it on an August day, when the colourful heather contrasts with the vivid green... of the sessile oaks, and the clouds’ shadows play on the rocks of Carreg-y-saeth, then you’ve seen most of what is good about the Rhinogs. It seems a shame to lose the paradise that is Cwm Bychan, but we lose it for the shade of its oak woods. As the path climbs towards the Rhinog crags, its surface becomes one of great rock slabs that form steps. These Roman Steps are in fact part of a medieval packhorse track, though the Romans, who had a fort in the Trawsfynydd area, might well have used their predecessors. Drovers would have passed this way too, on their way from Harlech to the markets in England, picking up local herds of Welsh black cattle on the way. The climb into the pass of Bwlch Tyddiad takes you into country that resembles the canyons of Utah or Arizona. Bwlch Tyddiad narrows and the walls of the surrounding hills close in. Suddenly you’re at the top of the pass and looking across a huge rushy hollow surrounded by a million spruce trees, part of the Coed-y-Brenin forest. The trees provide cover for the next couple of miles as the route heads northwards along the east side of the ridge. From Moel y Gwartheg at the northern edge of the forest there’s a good view of the knobbly northern Rhinog ridge and the huge Trawsfynydd reservoir. The Magnox nuclear power station on the far side was being decommissioned, a process that started in 1993 and was expected to take 90 years. However, the Welsh Government have decided to redevelop the site using small modular reactors, in order to counter the nation's dependence on fossil fuels and reduce the carbon emissions. The last stretch of the walk climbs back over another wild heathery pass tucked beneath the craggy mountains of Clip and Craig Wion. From here the path, a narrow ribbon of peat, winds its way through the heather to make a return to the greenery of Cwm Bychan, where paradise is regained.
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Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
The county of Gwynedd is home to most of the Snowdonia National Park – including the wettest spot in Britain, an arête running up to Snowdon’s summit that receives an average annual rainfall of 4,473mm. With its mighty peaks, rivers and strong Welsh heritage (it has the highest proportion of Welsh-speakers in all of Wales), it’s always been an extremely popular place to visit and live.
Nearby places to stay
View all (8)
Hotel
Ty Mawr Hotel
★★★
"Excellent hospitality in a lovely countryside setting...."
- Family rooms: 2
- Free TV
- WiFi available
Hotel
The Hotel Portmeirion
★★★★
"Remarkable location with spectacular views...."
- Family rooms: 6
- Free TV
- WiFi available
- Lift available
Restaurant with Rooms
Aberdunant Hall
★★★★
"Stylish cooking and elegant rooms set in beautiful ancient parkland...."
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Ty Mawr Hotel
Ty Mawr translates as 'Big House' and this particular house is located in the picturesque Snowdonia National Park. The attractive grounds, opposite the River Artro, provide a popular be...
★★★ Rating
The Hotel Portmeirion
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Aberdunant Hall
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Barmouth Bay Holiday Park
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Greenacres Holiday Park
A quality holiday park on level ground just a short walk from Black Rock Sands, and set against a backdrop of Snowdonia National Park. All touring pitches are on hardstandings surrounde...
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Islawrffordd Caravan Park
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Trawsdir Touring Caravans & Camping Park
Well run by the owners, this quality park enjoys spectacular views to the sea and hills, and is very accessible for motor traffic. The facilities are appointed to a very high standard, ...
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Penmaenuchaf Dolgellau
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